I liked Lima

Lima was one of the few places of South America that I truly enjoyed being in. I liked the atmosphere, I liked how safe I felt and I liked that it had character. We stayed in the Miraflores area which was where most backpackers stay. We had loads of restaurants to choose from, coffee shops and different markets. On the first day we got to our hostel far too early to check-in (a common theme in the next few weeks of travelling). Luckily, the staff at the hostel were kind enough to let us shower after our night bus and leave our bags there until we could. We had a quick breakfast and then went out to explore Lima. Our main aim was to find clothes for our Machu Picchu trek the following week. Conveniently, Lima is full of proper clothes shops and even shopping centres (one of our first experiences of this in South America). It doesn’t take much to excite us these days but we were in our element. We spent hours wandering through Adidas, Nike and other sports/camping shops. Eventually we settled on a pair of ridiculously patterned leggings each (you’ll see these in the next blog) and a two more sensible t-shirts to wear as layers. We also purchased matching jumpers from the market. Much to Kat’s annoyance, I also spent way too long trying to find a decent knee support for the trek. I had very little success. We grabbed a quick fast-food lunch (Lima is full of KFCs and Pizza Huts) and left feeling very chilled and comfortable. 

Kennedy Park


On the way back from the mall we visited El Parque del Amor (the park of love) – a popular spot for tourists, wind surfers and people wanting to enjoy the chill vibes. Eventually, after a quick coffee stop, we headed back to the hostel to check-in Unfortunately, this was when I learnt that Barclays had blocked my debit card and refused to unblock it until they spoke to me on the phone. Any traveller will know that this is easier said than done. I had no credit on my phone, I used all of Kat’s to make a 30 second phone call to them that didn’t even make it through security and I was in Peru. At one point they actually suggested that I write them a letter. From Peru. After about 4 hours of faffing and trying to convince Barclays to speak to me, the hostel kindly let me use their phone. (As a side-note here, I would highly recommend Kokopelli hostel). It took another set of security questions (for the 4th time), lots of arguing and frustration, a foreign call centre and a UK call centre to finally sort it out. A couple of very kind ladies finally sorted my issue and unblocked my card to allow me access to my own money again. Yay. 

El Parque del Amor

Kat enjoying the park and her new jumper


After the Barclays issue I needed a beer or 6. So we went out in search of food and drink. Every restaurant near our hostel was offering a free Pisco sour (an interesting Peruvian drink that tastes a lot like tequila) so it was a case of choosing the best. Or, in our case, choosing the one with the best vegetarian options for Kat. We settled on one shared a couple of litres of beer for ridiculously cheap, a pizza and a salad. We probably got some of the best service that we’d had in South America and I have no idea what the restaurant was called so I can’t even recommend it. 

A litre of lager


The next day; our last in Lima, we got a bus into the historical centre just to see what it was like. We weren’t too impressed and should have just stayed in Miraflores. Still, we enjoyed a nice coffee and then KFC for lunch and spent some more wasted time trying to find me a knee support. Again to no avail. After only a few hours, we caught the bus back to Miraflores. That night we ‘cooked’ instant noodles and then went out for some over-priced and tiny churros. Seriously, there must have been about 5 on the plate. Early the following morning we set off for the airport to catch our flight to Cusco. We’d decided to fly because it wasn’t that much more expensive than the bus and it was MUCH quicker. VivaAir was the cheap, no-frills airline that we chose. Everything was extra money on top of the flight price but we got to Cusco in an hour instead of 12. 

Historical centre of Lima

Blog-writing and crosswording with coffee


Personally, I really liked Lima. It felt a little bit like London – more of what I’m used to culturally than other places we’d visited. I could have stayed longer but we had to get to Cusco for our Salkantay trek and to acclimatise to the altitude beforehand. Read all about it (and see the crazy leggings) in the next blog post!

From Vilcabamba to Lima in 2 days…

It turns out that border crossings don’t get any easier the more you do them. The next stage of our journey involved getting from Vilcabamba to Piura in Peru (and then on to Lima). A bus from Vilcabamba to Loja, a bus from Loja to Piura. Sounds easy enough, right? Wrong. A top tip: if you are ever travelling on buses in South America at the weekend, book in advance! We were informed by our hostel in the afternoon before we were due to leave for Loja that every ticket on our second bus at 11pm was booked. Our only hope was to leave straight away and try to get on the only other alternative; a second bus at 12am. In a panic, we immediately left Vilcabamba and caught the first bus to Loja. We arrived just before 5pm and quickly booked 2 of the last few tickets for the next bus. Unfortunately, we were 7 hours early and were forced to hang around in a packed bus terminal. We played a riveting game of scrabble, ate a questionable dinner in a fast-food chicken restaurant, bought what we thought was fudge but turned out not to be and spoke to lots of Ecuadorean families who were very surprised that we were on our way to Peru. 

When we finally got on our bus we were surrounded by locals and Peruvians on their way home. Only 2 other tourists boarded the bus with us. It certainly wasn’t luxurious but between us we managed a few naps until we reached the border. At the border we had to get off the bus and queue to be stamped out of Ecuador by a not-so-friendly woman behind the counter. Then we walked across the border and joined the queue to be stamped into Peru. Even at 3am the whole process took almost an hour. I dread to think how long it takes in peak times. Once we were stamped we boarded the bus again and carried on our journey to Piura. At around 7am we arrived at the bus terminal in Piura, sleep-deprived and hungry. Perhaps stupidly, we’d made the decision to make the 16 hour bus journey to Lima that same day and had to wait around for the next stage of our epic journey at 3pm. 

Piura turned out to be nicer than we expected and we actually enjoyed the half-day we spent there. We went for breakfast, visited a brand-new shopping centre, travelled in a tuk-tuk, enjoyed coffee and quiche for lunch and wandered around the town. When the time finally arrived for our overnight bus to Lima, we were in high spirits, refreshed and full. I’m pleased to say that Cruz del Sur delivered the best bus journey we have been on in South America and our journey to Lima was completely seamless (for once!). We had leg rests, cup holders, tray tables, a tasty meal, reclineable seats and  loads of leg room (all of which seemed like the height of luxury for us). At 10pm we settled into our makeshift beds and slept. We didn’t wake up until 6am; 20 minutes before we reached Lima. I can’t say I’ve ever enjoyed being on a bus so much and a free night’s accommodation is always a plus! Our adventures would continue in Lima; the capital city of Peru.

Sorry for the lack of photos – there was nothing particularly interesting to take them of!