Charming Arequipa

After leaving Cusco, we caught another overnight bus to Arequipa. We used Cruz del Sur again as we’d had relatively good experiences with them previously. Again, we found it straightforward and comfortable. We arrived at our hostel the following day far too early to check in (6am) so had to amuse ourselves until 2pm. We had coffee in a French café, went shopping in the supermarket (where we also ate a very strange breakfast of eggs and pasta) and wandered around the centre. The Plaza de Armas in Arequipa is particularly pretty. When we were finally able to check in we both fell straight to sleep and napped for most of the afternoon. That night we cooked in the hostel kitchen and caught up on British tv in bed. Having our own room was the best. 

Plaza de Armas

Cathedral

Our own room with balcony!


On day 2 in Arequipa we took a cooking class to learn Peruvian techniques and cuisine. We chose Arthur restaurant which turned out to be an excellent choice. Arthur himself was very helpful and friendly. We had an amazing time and made delicious food. They even gave us a free pisco sour each which was a nice touch. After we made the food we got to eat it and we ended up back at the hostel completely stuffed. Obviously a brief nap followed and then some beer and rum drinking whilst playing cards to end a great day. 

Peeling prawns

The fire was meant to happen!


The next few days involved drinking coffee in various places, cooking in the hostel and trying not to spend too much money. We decided not to go to Colca Canyon as we thought the entrance fee was way too much. We visited a viewpoint and some more artesenal markets and found some quaint little side streets. One of the best things we did in Arequipa, other than the cooking class, was visit the Museo Santuarios Andinos. We watched a video in English to start the tour and were then shown various artefacts found on nearby mountains from Inca sacrifices. However, the ending was the most amazing part because we got to see the preserved mummy of a young girl once sacrificed at the top of a mountain. I won’t give too much away because the story is incredible and I would encourage anyone to go and visit when in Arequipa. The museum was so fascinating and the stories are so worth learning about. 

Exploring Arequipa


Lovely side streets

Rooftop sunset


After 4 nights in Arequipa and seeing as much as we could for not much money, we got another bus to our last stop in Peru – Puno. We only stayed here one night as it was simply another stopover for reaching the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and staying in Copacabana. I can’t say much about Puno because we arrived at night and left early in the morning. We enjoyed our time in Peru and have lots of amazing memories to take away from our time there. Hopefully Bolivia would be just as memorable.  

From Vilcabamba to Lima in 2 days…

It turns out that border crossings don’t get any easier the more you do them. The next stage of our journey involved getting from Vilcabamba to Piura in Peru (and then on to Lima). A bus from Vilcabamba to Loja, a bus from Loja to Piura. Sounds easy enough, right? Wrong. A top tip: if you are ever travelling on buses in South America at the weekend, book in advance! We were informed by our hostel in the afternoon before we were due to leave for Loja that every ticket on our second bus at 11pm was booked. Our only hope was to leave straight away and try to get on the only other alternative; a second bus at 12am. In a panic, we immediately left Vilcabamba and caught the first bus to Loja. We arrived just before 5pm and quickly booked 2 of the last few tickets for the next bus. Unfortunately, we were 7 hours early and were forced to hang around in a packed bus terminal. We played a riveting game of scrabble, ate a questionable dinner in a fast-food chicken restaurant, bought what we thought was fudge but turned out not to be and spoke to lots of Ecuadorean families who were very surprised that we were on our way to Peru. 

When we finally got on our bus we were surrounded by locals and Peruvians on their way home. Only 2 other tourists boarded the bus with us. It certainly wasn’t luxurious but between us we managed a few naps until we reached the border. At the border we had to get off the bus and queue to be stamped out of Ecuador by a not-so-friendly woman behind the counter. Then we walked across the border and joined the queue to be stamped into Peru. Even at 3am the whole process took almost an hour. I dread to think how long it takes in peak times. Once we were stamped we boarded the bus again and carried on our journey to Piura. At around 7am we arrived at the bus terminal in Piura, sleep-deprived and hungry. Perhaps stupidly, we’d made the decision to make the 16 hour bus journey to Lima that same day and had to wait around for the next stage of our epic journey at 3pm. 

Piura turned out to be nicer than we expected and we actually enjoyed the half-day we spent there. We went for breakfast, visited a brand-new shopping centre, travelled in a tuk-tuk, enjoyed coffee and quiche for lunch and wandered around the town. When the time finally arrived for our overnight bus to Lima, we were in high spirits, refreshed and full. I’m pleased to say that Cruz del Sur delivered the best bus journey we have been on in South America and our journey to Lima was completely seamless (for once!). We had leg rests, cup holders, tray tables, a tasty meal, reclineable seats and  loads of leg room (all of which seemed like the height of luxury for us). At 10pm we settled into our makeshift beds and slept. We didn’t wake up until 6am; 20 minutes before we reached Lima. I can’t say I’ve ever enjoyed being on a bus so much and a free night’s accommodation is always a plus! Our adventures would continue in Lima; the capital city of Peru.

Sorry for the lack of photos – there was nothing particularly interesting to take them of!